what you could do is put a couple of slots in the 3/4" pipe and drill a hole in the 1" pipe for a screw to hold it in place. Screw the reducer on to one end of the 3/4" pipe and slide the 1" pipe over the end, this will be really tight, i made the mistake of giving it a couple of taps with the hammer, so now its stuck on there. So now its just a case of putting it all together and testing it. Now its just a case of putting it all together, the welded end of the 8mm pipe should be flush with one hole, then screw in the 1 1/2" off cut of pipe by hand just tight enough to hold the pipe in place. It pays to use some files on the holes and the cut ends of the pipes so you don't cut your hands. From those lines I just made a mark further down on each side. I put the reducer on some paper/card and put marks where the seam lines where, then rotated the reducer and used those marks to mark the reducer. I then needed a 8mm hole on either side of the reducer so the gas feed pipe can go through, but I need it far enough down so that I have some of the inside thread I can use to put some pipe in to clamp the gas feed in place.įortunately the manufacturers have put a mold seam through the middle which you can use to work out where the middle is on each side. I used a bench grinder to put ridges on one end of the 8mm pipe so that when I clamp the gas line on it will hold and not pop off with pressure. be careful with the 1mm drill bits they are very brittle and be snapped very easily. When you drill in to metal your bit can slip so its best to use a center punch and a hammer to put a little dent where you want the hole, this will help to stop the bit from slipping. I then made a mark on the 8mm pipe which marks the width of the reducer from the welded end, then half way along I drilled a 1mm hole. A lot of people use a brass pipe for their gas feed. I welded one end of the 8mm pipe shut so that gas wont escape, you could use an end cap. My plan for this burner is to put it in a new Furnace so I can melt aluminum and copper and cast it. This would require a forge, which I don't have, I could have flared it using an improvised forge using bricks and charcoal but I figured i would just try the EZ Burner and see if it was powerful enough and it seems to be. The EZ burner is an adaptation of Ron Reil's original burner, the main difference is the end is not flared which would have to be done by heating the end up and hammering it on an anvil. I have looked around at various designs and i have settled on theĮZ Burner (Easy Burner) designed by Ron Reil, originally designed for a forge it would be suitable for a furnace. Its clean and fairly cheap once you have paid for the cylinder. I decided I needed to build a propane burner as propane is available all year round from multiple places and can even be delivered. I wanted to revisit my aluminum foundry, previously I had it running on charcoal which turned out to be messy and expensive and in the UK its hard to get charcoal in the winter. Building a Propane burner for a forge or furnace.
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